Welcome to the Church of Cyber - Cooking

Because life is too damned short to eat bad food!

Sauces:

-------------- The brown sauces

FONDS BRUN (Brown Stock)
Water to cover 3 lb beef + 2lb veal bones. Simmer 3 hours.
Add carrot, onion, leeks. Add bouquet garni. Simmere 1 1/2
hours. Strain, cool, degrease.  Use the meat and bones again to
make glace de viande.  ----------------> GLACE DE VIANDE
 |                                      Cover bones + meat with cold
 |                                      water. Simmer 5 hours. Reduce
 |                                      rapidly until you have a
 |----->  DEMI GLAZE                    thick, dark treacle. Cool.
 |  Pour 2 1/2 pints fonds brun on to   Use like meat extract.
 |  a brown roux while stirring. Add                 |
 |  2 T tomato puree, 2 T mirepoix, a                |
 |  bouquet garni. Simmer 2 hours,                   V
 |  skim often. Degrease.                       BEURRE COLBERT
 |                                      Mash 1 T Glace de Viande into
 |                                      4 oz soft butter, add a pinch
 |                                      of parsley and tarragon, and
 |-----> SAUCE ROMAINE                  1 t lemon juice.
 |  Caramelize 2 T sugar. Add 4 T       * Lukewarm on grilled meat,
 |  vinegar and reduce to half its      chicken or fish. Fried fish
 |  volume. Add 1/2 pint Demi Glaze;    becomes 'a la colbert' when
 |  simmer 15 minutes. Before serving   served this way.
 |  add 1 1/2 oz currants, 1 1/2 oz
 |  chopped nuts (almonds or pine
 |  kernels)
 |  * Tongue or braised veal
 |
 |
 |----->  LYONNAISE
 |  Cook a small chopped onion in a little butter. Add 8 oz dry wine
 |  and/or vinegar and reduce to half volume. Add 1/2 pint Demi Glaze
 |  * Meat or vegetables (very good with artichoke)
 |
 |
 |----->  POIVRADE
 |  Cook mirepoix. Add 1/4 pint each vinegar and red wine, reduce by
 |  half. Add 1/2 pint Demi Glaze and 6 crushed pepper corns. Simmer 1
 |  hour, skim and strain. If possible add 1 T redcurrant jelly.
 |  * Game
 |
 |
 |----->  ITALIENNE
 |  Cook ham, mushrooms, and shallots in oil. To a cupful of that add a
 |  cupful of any dry wine and reduce it to half its volume over a high
 |  heat. Add 2 cupfuls of Demi Glaze and 1 T tomato puree. Add chopped
 |  parsley, season, simmer 15 minutes.
 |  * Liver, eggs, red meat.
 |
 |
 |----->  FINANCIERE
 |  Demi Glaze + chicken stock with trimmings of truffle and chopped
 |  mushroom. Add a little madiera that's been reduced by half
 |  * Red meat or game
 |
 |----->  MADERE  ----------------------------> PERIGEUX
   Reduce 1/2 pint madiera to half     Cook 2 T diced truffles in a
   its volume. Add 3/4 pint demi       little butter. Add 1/2 pint
   glaze and 1 T butter. Season.       Sauce Madere.
   Stir until butter is absorbed then  * Pheasant, brains, any red meat
   leave to simmer for 2 minutes
   * Steak, ham, kidneys, veal, duck


------------------ Bechemel (white sauce) based sauces

       BECHAMEL
2 oz butter + 2 oz flour stirred over low heat 3 minutes without
browning. Slowly add 1 point warm milk. Simmer 3 minutes. Season.
 |
 |
 |---->  CREVETTE
 |  Pound shrimp skins with butter. Stir into bechamel and boil it
 |  up. Strain through cloth. Season. If you haven't enough shrimp
 |  skins to make the sauce go pink, add a drop of artificial color.
 |  * Shrimps, white fish, eggs
 |
 |
 |----> NANTUA
 |  As crevette, with crayfish.
 |
 |
 |---->   CARDINAL   --------------------->  RICH CARDNAL
 |  As crevette, with lobster            Add lobster meat and truffles to
 |  * Lobster                            Sauce Cardinal
 |
 |
 |---->   AUX OEUFS DURS
 |  Bechemel + 2 finely chopped hard boiled eggs + a handful
 |  of chopped parsely. Season.  
 |  * Fish, especially cod.
 |
 |
 |---->      CREME
 |  To Bechamel add 1/4 pint warm cream. Season.
 |  * Boiled fish, plain veg., poultry, eggs
 |
 |
 |----> A LA CREME
 |  To Bechamel add 2 beaten egg yolks. Remove from heat, stir
 |  while it thickens up. Season.
 |
 |
 |---->  AURORA
 |  Bechamel + 1 T tomato puree + 1 T butter. Season.
 |  * Fish, eggs, or poultry
 |
 |
 |----> RAVIGOTE
 |  1 1/2 oz vinegar + 1 1/2 oz white wine + 1/2 shallot chopped 
 |  + 1 sprig thyme + pinch pepper + bay leaf.  Boil to reduce by
 |  half, strain. Add 1/2 pint bechamel and if possible mushroom essence
 |  or 3 oz water in which mushrooms have cooked or reconstituted) 
 |  Simmer 10 minutes, add 2 T butter and 2 T cream, season
 |  * Egg, fish, or plainly cooked chicken
 |
 |
 |---->    MORNAY
 |  To the Bechamel add 6 oz grated cheese (Parmesan or Gruyere if
 |  possible). Remove from heat and stir well. S, add a pinch of
 |  nutmeg and a pinch of cayenne.
 |
 |
 |----> SOUBISE
    Bechamel + 1 lb chopped onion cooked soft in 1/2 pint dry white wine,
    pureed through a strainer. Add 3 oz cream. Beat well. Season.
    * Lamb, mutton, or veg.


-------------------------- The cooked egg sauces

       HOLLANDAISE
Put 3 egg yolks + 1 T lemon juice into a double boiler and keep whisking
it for 3 minutes. Now begin to add 6 oz butter in pea-sized pieces.
Finally add 1 T hot water. Season with salt (if you didn't use unsalted
butter, no salt will be needed) and dash tabasco or white pepper to taste.
* Fish, eggs, veg. esp. asparagus
[Alternatively: First, cut 1/2 lb butter into 1/2 inch cubes.
Whisk eggs and 1-2 T lemon juice over medium heat until foamy and
just starting to thicken, hurl in a handful (5-8) of the butter cubes.
As the butter melts, add 2-3 cubes at a time while whisking. This is
a Man's Recipe, as it requires an eagle eye and steel nerves to wait
for just the right moment to begin adding the butter.]
 |
 |
 |---->  MOUSSELINE
 |  Put 1/4 pint of thick beaten cream into 3/4 pint Hollandaise.
 |  * Fish, asparagus, salmon cutlet
 |
 |
 |---->  MALTAISE
 |  Juice of 1 plus blanched and very finely chopped zest of two
 |  blood oranges added to 1 pint Hollandaise.
 |  * Fried sole, plaice, prawns, or asparagus
 |
 |
 |---->  BEARNAISE
    Put 2 oz vinegar + 2 oz dry white wine + 1 T chopped shallot or onion
    + 1 T chopped tarragon in a pan. Boil till it is recuced to 2 T.
    Strain, Use in place of the lemon juice in Hollandaise.
    * Steak, grilled, chicken, or boiled fish
    [Note: Let the saucepan cool before reuse, or use another
    pan, or the eggs will heat up too quickly and curdle.]
      |
      |
      |---->  FOYOT
      |  2 T glace de viande warmed and stirred into 1 pint Bearnaise
      |  * Sweetbreads, egg, or light meats
      |
      |
      |---->  COLBERT
      |  Melt 1 T glace de viande in 2 T dry white wine. Simmer for 5 min.
      |  Stir into 1 pint Bearnaise
      |  * Chicken, steak, or eggs
      |
      |
      |---->  CHORON
         Put 6 oz tomato puree into 1 pint Bearnaise.
         * Steak, fish, chicken, or eggs


------------------ The raw egg sauces

MAYONNAISE
Beat 3 egg yolks + 1 T vinegar + a pinch of salt, pepper, and mustard.
Add 3/4 pint of warm oil while still beating (start with a drop or two
at a time, then add oil more quickly as the mayonnaise thickens)
 |
 |
 |----->  MOHAMMED
 |  2 hard boiled eggs + 3 boned anchovies are chopped together with as
 |  much as you like of capers, celetery, cucumber, and chopped onion.
 |  Add to mayonnaise
 |  * Fish
 |
 |
 |----->  TAPENADE
 |  1/2 pint mayonnaise + 1 T capers + 1 T anchovy and a generous
 |  pinch of black pepper.
 |  * Cold boiled beef, cold fish, hard eggs
 |
 |
 |----->  VERTE
 |  Puree chervil, tarragon, spinach and watercress for about 5 minutes
 |  then sieve it. Use this to color mayonnaise.
 |  * Cold food, especially if it's well decorated
 |
 |
 |----->  REMOULADE
 |  Add chopped capers, gherkins, chervil, tarragon, and onion
 |  (anchovy, too, if you like) to the mayonnaise. Amount is up to you.
 |  * Cold meat, poultry, or lobster
 |
 |
 |----->  TARTARE
    Use 2 hard yolks + 1 raw one when making mayonaise. Add ingredients
    as for Remoulade.
    * Fried or grilled fish

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