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From: martin@plaza.ds.adp.com
To: Pacific NW Motorcycle Food Forum
Subject: Blue Flame
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X-Comment: Pacific NW Motorcycle Food Forum
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Status: RO
A blast (snicker) from my misspent youth. "Raw water" is very hard
well water. I particularly like the last paragraph:
THE BLUE FLAME
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 1
GENERAL CONDITIONS OF ALCOHOLIC 1
FERMENTATION
RATE OF FERMENTATION 1, 2
ALCOHOLIC YIELD AND BY-PRODUCTS OF 2, 3
FERMENTATION
THE BASIC BATCH 3, 4, 5
DISTILLATION THEORY 5,6
CLEANING THE STILL 6
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS IN DISTILLATION 7, 8, 9
COMMON POT STILL 12
RUNNING THE STILL 13, 14, 15, 16
FIRST RUN 13, 14
SECOND RUN 14
THIRD RUN 14, 15
FOURTH RUN 14, 16
REFLUX COLUMN DISTILLATION UNITS 16, 17
AGING 17, 18
GENERAL BREWING INFORMATION
(BEER, WINES, BOURBON, ETC) 19-25
THE BLUE FLAME
It is well-known that the making of intoxicating beverages is as old as
recorded history and probably a great deal older. In this treatise we wish to
present the easiest method to make a "product" that is both safe and pleasant
to consume. The goal, naturally, is ethyl alcohol, or C2H5OH; the onoy base
or stock from which good drinking whiskey and other liquor is made. In fact,
ethyl alcohol is rapidly oxidized in the body to carbon dioxide and water, and
no cumulative effect occurs. We will attempt in this article to combine the
most useful chemical and technological information with "homespun" procedures,
as well as trying to keep the data simple and understandable. The text, by
the way, is "Chemistry and Technology of Wines and Liquors" by Herstein and
Jacobs. (Excerpts from this book are within quotation marks).
"GENERAL CONDITIONS OF ALCOHOLIC FERMENTATION"
Fermentable sugar, water, the presence of a ferment (yeast), and a favorable
temperature, usually between 75-80 and NEVER over 90 F, are inescapable
requirements. Concentration of sugar (2 lbs. per gallon) and yeast and the
acidity or pH of the fermentation mash are of great importance. The pH range
is usually 4. to 4.5. (Note: The parentheses are ours).
"RATE OF FERMENTATION"
The rate of fermentation depends chiefly on the temperature and the
concentration of yeast. The rate of fermentation is twice as fast at 95 F as
at 77 F. "However, the autolysis (decomposition) of the yeast is favored by
higher temperatures, and
the rate of undesirable by-processes increased; hence, it is usual to set 90 F
as the upper limit." (In other words, it is definite that the higher we go
above 90 F, the less alcohol we produce. If your ferment temperatures are
from 5 to 15 degrees higher than 90 F, your probable loss of yield of alcohol
will be from about 25% to 50% because yeast cells die, as well as undesirable
products increase, at higher temperatures).
"ALCOHOLIC YIELD AND BY-PRODUCTS OF FERMENTATION"
(1) The overall chemical equation of the conversion of sugar to alcohol is:
C6H12O6 = 2C2HOH plus 2CO2
(Hexose) (Ethyl Alcohol) (Carbon Dioxide)
(2) The weight of products from fermentation of one hundred pounds of sugar
is as follows:
Alcohol 48.5 lbs.
Carbon Dioxide 46.7
Glycerol 3.2
Organic Acids .6
Miscellaneous 1.2
___
100.2 Lbs.
The extra 0.2 lbs. is due to the fixation of water in the formation of some of
the by-products.
(3) In general, the chief products of vinous fermentation are alcohol and
carbon dioxide (94-95% of the sugar), glycerol (2.5-3.6%), acids (0.4-0.7%),
an appreciable quantity of fusel oils (higher alcohols), acetaldehyde and
other aldehydes, and esters. The minor products of fermentation are:
Formic Acid Acetic Acid
Propionic Acid Butyric Acid
Lactic Acid Ethyl Butyrate
Ethyl Acetate Ethyl Caprate
(4) Very little methyl alcohol is found in grape wine, about 0.15%. Methyl
alcohol is NOT produced by fermentation of pure sugar, its sole source appears
to be in the hydrolysis of pectins. Pectins are found in grapes, commercial
orange juice, and other fruits. The addistion of several cans of orange juice
is not necessary and may, in fact, increase methyl alcohol content. It is far
safer to use a chemical "booster" such as ammonium phospate-dibasic; or a
close substitute containing nitrogen and phosphate. Calgon water softener is
also a fair substitute. Perhaps we should explain that the reason for adding
an ingredient to the sugar, water, and yeast mix is solely for the yeast to
have "food" in order to "work" properly. It has been established that yeast
needs nitrogen, phosphate, and pootassium for "food", but only in very small
proportions. In other words, the ammonium phosphate-dibasic has the nitrogen
and phosphate, and the raw water the potassium.
THE BASIC BATCH (5 GALLONS OF MASH):
There are a great many ferments or batches and trying to catalog them in all
varieties would be a tremendous task. Therefore, we will discuss only a
"basic" ferment that proves itself reliable and gives optimum results time
after time. Keep in mind that it is only possible to produce a dcertain
percent of alcohol, 9% to 10% by volume, depending on what type of yeast you
use (at the right temperatures), regardless of "pet" additions such as
molasses, coren sugar, corn meal, wheat, large quantities of juices, etc.
Therefore, the "basic" ferment saves money.
(1) Ten pounds refined sugar (always 2 lbs. per gallon) dissolved in lukewarm
(80 F) RAW WATER before pouring into your container.
(2) One cup of Baker's yeast. If this large amount causes raised eyebrows,
read over "Rate of Fermentation," page 1 again. Also, according to the text,
yeasts multiply most rapidly in the presence of a supply of air. However, by
using a large amount of yeast at the start (one cup per 5-gallon mix) it is
not necessary to start a culture of sugar-water-yeast and later add this
mixture to the batch.
(3) One teaspoon of ammonium phosphate-dibasic, or as explained on page 3
under "Alcoholic Yield and By-Product5s of Fermentation," a close substitute.
The addition of this chemical booster will shorten the time the batch works.
(4) After the above items have been put into the mash container, fill the
container to the 5-gallon mark. The best method of eliminating unwanted
oxygen, after the reaction has started, is to stopper the container and lead
a hose or tube from the container to a can or bottle filled with water. This
allwos the carbon dioxide gas to bubble off through the owater, thereby
preventing oxygen from entering the container, otherwise, if the ferment
stands too long without an adequate "check valve," a vinegar process could
start turning the mix sour.
(5) As stated under "General Conditions of Alcoholic Fermentation" and "Rate
of Fermentation," page 1, temperature control of the ferment is very
important. Keep your batch within the 75-85 F range and never over 90 F.
(6) Up to now, if the steps have been faithfully followed, your mix will stop
working in about 6 to 9 days. Although the ferment might stop working in this
time estimate, it takes several days more for the batch to settle. The best
practice is to keep two or three batches in the various working stages so that
you can allow the ferment to clear up or settle before running. Apparently,
although this point is not covered in the text, the longer a stoppered batch
"sits," up to a certain time limit, the better the yield. The reason the mix
stops
working is that the higher the percentage of alcohol in you batch, the more
yeast cells die until the alcoholic content is so high that all yeast cells
die, and your mix stops working. Baker's yeast yields around 9 to 10%
alcohol; wine yeast, on the other hand, yields 14 to 16% because wine yeast
has a greater tolerance for alcohol. Therefore, a cup of Baker's yeast (dry)
for each 10 lbs. of refined sugar is about the right concentration of yeast
ofor our purpose. We are also reasonably sure that the distilled product from
a sugar-water-yeast-chemical booster ferment will contain only ethyl alcohol,
carbon dioxide and distilled water at the end of a four run process as
described in this article. We make this statement even though it is contrary
to the facts as set forth in "Alcoholic Yield and By-Products of
Fermentation," but keep in mind that we said, "reasonably sure," and it only
deals with the fermentation process, whereas our statement concerns the
product after the four-run distillation process.
"DISTILLATION THEORY"
A simple definition of distillation is: the separation of the components of a
mixture by partial vaporization of the mixture and separate recovery of the
vapor and the residue; i.e., distillation is a method of separation and
concentration based on differences in volatility.
The apparatus in which this process is carried on is called a still, of which
the essential parts are:
(1) the kettle in which vaporization is effected,
(2) the connecting tube which conveys the vapor to
(3) the condenser where the vapors are re-liquified,
and (4) the receiver in which the distillate is collected.
Modifications involving the addition of other parts to the still are
introduced for various purposes such as conservation of heat and to effect
rectification. The condensed vapors, returning to accomplish rectification,
are called reflux. In other words, a simple distillation is a means of
separating a volatile liquid from a non-volatile residue. A fractional
distillation is a means of separating liquids of different volatility.
Fractional distillation rests on the fact that no two liquids of different
chemical composition have the same vapor pressure at all temperatures, nor
very often the same boiling point. However, every liquid has a definite vapor
pressure at any given temperature. ["]The various types of stills may be
classified as: pot stills, Coffey, or patent stills, vat stills, and
continuous stills."
CLEANING THE STILL:
There are too many variations of the four types of stills in our interesting
hobby to attempt an explanation of each "cooker," but our chief worry,
regardless of type, is cleanliness and the prevention of accidents and fires.
Keeping a clean still is only common sense and is greatly simplified if your
cleaning begins immediately after the last run while the metal is still warm.
Use water to wash out all parts and keep the kettle well-scrubbed. Do NOT use
soap as it might impart a diagreeable taste to your product. It is necessary
to supplement the plain water rinse by establishing the following cleaning
practice at least once a month:
Dissolve 1/2 cup of salt in about 16 ounces of vinegar and pour this solution
back and forth through the tubing several times, then rinse thoroughly with
water.
This procedure is all that is necessary for the pot stills, but the reflux
types need special attention to the cleaning of the reflux chamber and the
"marbles," helices, etc.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS IN DISTILLATION
The home ditillation of alcohol can be either very hazardous or reasonably
safe depending upon the degree of care taken. Unfortunately, accidents have
occurred resulting in burns to people and destruction of property. These
accidents can be well summed-up in General "Hap" Arnold's message in which we
have substituted the word "distilling" for "flying". "Distilling is not
inherently dangerous. But like the sea, it is terribly unforgiving of
carelessness, incapacity or neglect."
In this discussion the unsafe practices which produce the majority of all
distilling accidents are described and the proper method of operation to
eliminate the hazards is set forth for your safety.
First, we must recognize and accept the fact that for all practical purposes,
when distilling alcohol we might just as well be distilling gasoline. Take a
look at the comparable properties.
Alcohol Gasoline
(160 proof) (Aviation Grade)
Flash Point 68F 45F
(Alcohol from condenser is well
above this temperature)
Ignition Temperature 793F 536F
(Any flame or electreic spark is
above this temperature)
Explosive Limits 4.3 to 19% 1.4 to 7.6%
(% by volume)
(Note wide range vapor/air mixture
which can be ignited)
Vapor Density (Air = 1) 1.59 3 to 4
(Although there is a tendency for rich alcohol vapors to settle, it should be
noted that alcohol/air mixtures in the flammable range have a specific gravity
only very little greater than that of air (1.02-1.11). Therefore air currents
will distributre such mixtures widely).
It should be obvious from the above data that, from the fire point of view,
alcohol is almost as hazardous as gasoline.
(1) If you use glass bottles for mash be sure that the bottles are taped with
masking tape to avoid the hazard of cuts from broken glass. Should the bottle
break, there is no fire hazard from mash because the alcohol content of mash
is too low to create a flammable mixture at ordinary room temperatures. Never
attempt to carry heavy 10 gallon bottles. Their structural strength may be
insufficient and they have been known to fail upon the slightest impact. Also
the strengtth of your back is inadequate in an awkward position. Use a dolly
to transport the bottle or, better yet, siphon into the still. The best bet
is to get metal or plastic containers.
(2) NEVER FILL A STILL ON THE STOVE. Of all the dangerous things to do, the
second most hazardous is to fill a still with second or subsequent runs when
the still is on the stove. Even though the fire is out, the pilot light or
oven may be lit. Any spillage of alcohol at this time can get you into
serious trouble. If the vapor flashes, youu will probably drop the dispensing
container, with the likelihood of splashing flaming alcohol on yourself or
others, as well as starting a large fire.
Alway charge the sstill on the floor away from the oven and, if it is too
heavey foir one man to lift, get help. Any of your friends will help in this
important endeavor. To form correct habits, this practice should be followed
even to charge the still with mash.
(3) NEVER LEAVE A STILL UNATTENDED. THIS IS THE MOST HAZARDOUS ACTION OF ANY
AND IS ABSOLUTELY INEXCUSABLE.
First Condenser water can fail due to:
a) failure of hose lines
b) Low water pressure
c) Shutdown of utilities
d) Failure of condenser shell.
Without adequate condensing means, alcohol vapors will rapidly spread within
the room until a source of ignition is reached. The degree of flash fire will
depend upon the accumulation of vapors, but in most cases the fire is
immediately beyond control. If the concentration of vapors is sufficiently
widespread, an explosion can occur.
Second The receiver can overflow. This will create a large area from which
the alcohol can vaporize. Usually, under these conditions the flash point is
reached. Flash point is defined as the lowest temperature at which a liquid
will give off flammable vapor at or near its surface. This vapor forms an
intimate mixture with air, and it is this mixture which ignites -- VIOLENTLY!!
(4) LOCATE THE DISTILLED ALCOHOL RECEIVER AT AS LOW A LEVEL AS POSSIBLE and
extend the run-down tube fromn the condenser to the bottom of the receiver.
First Placing the receiver at a low level will tend to keep any alcohol vapor
away from the flames at the top of the stove. Note that any flames (main
burners or pilots) in the oven or broiler units are usually lower and tend to
draw the air for combustion
from a low level. Therefore, all flames, including the pilots, in ovens or
broilers, should be turned off. In a few of our stoves (older Wedgewood
models) all pilots are controlled from a single safety shutoff valve that
shuts down the entire stove if an oven pilot goes out. On these stoves it is
impossible ot cut off th eoven pilot and keep the top burners operating.
Therefore, for such cases the receiver should be located at least three feet
away from the bottom of the stoveand the recommendation in "Place the receiver
in an auxiliary container" (page 11) must be followed.
Second When the run down tube extends to the bottom of the receiver and
becomes submerged in the liquid, there are several safety features created.
(1) The alcohol liquid that contacts air is reduced to only the stilled
surface in the receiver. (2) If any alcohol vapor remains uncondensed it will
bubble in the liquied of the receiver and serve as a warning of insufficient
condensing capacity. (3) If therte is abundant condensing capacity, the
condenser will establish a partial vacuum in the system and draw up a liquiid
head that will stand in the run down tube. This will be proof of adequate
condensing capacity. Note: When the still is first started, it contains air
above the liquid. This air must be displaced. Therefore, the end of the run
down tube may bubble at first.
(5) Use a receiver with a small filling opening. A small opening cuts down on
the quantity of vapors escaping into the room and it also saves you alcohol.
If a fire does occur at the receiver, it will burn at the small opening and be
easily controlled. With a large opening, the fire will be much larger, a lot
more heat will be rapidly given off, and the fire will be more difficult to
control. If such should occur, extinguish all sources of flame and follow the
suggestions in paragraph (10) "In case of accident, immediately call the Fire
Department."
(6) Place the receiver in an auxiliary container. If the receiver is placed
in a dishpan or other type of auxiliary container, an accidental overflow will
be restricted much more than would be the case if it should run on the floor.
(7) Be sure exhaust fans or other means of ventilation are used to reduce the
possibility of alcohol vapor accumulation.
(8) Never use a still if you do not have complete confidence in the equipment.
Stills should be of welded or brazed metal construction with metal tubing and
tight-fitting slip joints or bolted gasketed heads. All joints should be
carefully made up to avoid leaks of either vapor or liquid alcohol. Condeser
capacity should be adequate for the maximum rate of distillation. If you are
not qualified to appraise the condition of your equipment or its methoid of
operation, get a qualified friend to make the inspection for you.
(9) Don't store uncut alcohol. If a fire should involve this highly flammable
liquid, the situation could rapidly become more serious. Cut your alcohol
before you store it. Alcohol cut to 90 proof has a flash point of 77 F,
whereas 160 prooof alcohol has a flash point of only 68 F.
(10) In case of an accident, immediately call the Fire Department. Do not
delay other than to get all occupants out of the house. It is good practice
to have your garden hose attached to the outside faucet and readily available.
An alcohol fire can be extinguished with water if the alcohol is sufficiently
diluted. However the heat release is so rapid that except for very small
fires, you will need trained help in handling the situation. Don't delay in
evacutating the house and calling the Fire Department; then do the best you
can in controlling the situation.
(11) Above all else:
a. DON'T LEAVE A STILL UNATTENDED!
b. DON'T DRINK AND RUN A STILL!
c. DON'T RUN THE STILL IF YOU ARE SLEEPY!!!
Distillation can be interesting and it can be reasonably safe, but don't spoil
it through unintelligent operation or plain carelessness. Though you may be a
brave soul with lots of luck, don't expose yourself and other people to
serious injury -- OR yourself to liability for serious property damages.
Remember, if an accident occurs, you are the cause and the one legally
responsible.
(12) ONE SPECIAL WORD OF CAUTION FOR THOSE WHO USE IMMERSION HEATERS. THESE
HEATERS MUST BE COMPLETELY IMMERSED IN LIQUID. If they are not, they will
overheat and be destroyed. If this happens while a flammable mixture of
alcohol vapor and air is in the top portion of the still, an explosion will
occur. Such an explosion would be extremely dangerous both from the
standpoint of flying parts of the still and a very rapid spread of fire.
COMMON POT STILL:
This section deals with the 3 or 4 run system, using a basic sugar-water-
yeast-chemical booster ferment, and the common pot still apparatus.
Incidentally, the reflux chamber stills are excellent (one run equals four
runs in pot stills) but he majority of us use a pot still over a gas flame.
Therefore, in this section, we will concern ourselves with this method. Be
sure your thermometer is mounted in the vapor space chamber so that
temperatures will be vapor temperatures. Do not mount your theremometer in
the liquid, keep it at least 3 inches above the liquid level.
RUNNING THE STILL:
Use the ferment described in "The Basic Batch," page 3:
NOTE: TURN ON EXHAUST FAN FOR ALL RUNS
First Run - Run to 207 F*
Pour your ferment into the kettle up to the 5-gallon mark and set up the
apparatus. Adjust your condenser and turn on the flame or flames. (War-up
period can be full blast). This section is based on a one-buner heat source.
If you can use two burners, your time will be considerably shorter. Depending
on the alcohol and water proportions, as well as the temperature of the mix
before heating, the run should start in about one hour betweeen 170 F and 196
F. Approximately two hours later, when 207 F is reached, you will have a good
working stock of about one or one and a fifth gallons. BUT, if your ferment
temperatures were too high, you might be unlucky and ge only 1/2 gallon! (See
"Rate of Fermentation," page 1). Your first run distillate should amount to
about 40% ethyl alcohol and 60% water and by-products. Disconnect the kettle
and pour out the residue. Be careful while pouring out the hot residue as
splashes might cause you to drop the container resulting in painful burns. A
good way to empty a large still is to use a piece of garden hose as a siphon.
Put one end in the liquid and fill the hose by turning on the water faucet.
As soon as all the air is removed, disconnect the hose from the faucet and let
the liquid siphon down the drain. At this point it is a good idea to rinse
out the tubing so that any lurking "solids" are flushed away.
*See Note Page 16
We might also add that sometimes one gets anxious and runs before his mix
stops working. The green or unsettled batch bubbles inside the pot.,
Consquently if there's not enough space above the level of the liquid in the
kettle, solids will come over and cause the condensate to turn milky in the
receiver. This is also caused by running "full blast" or, in other words,
there is too much heat applied to the pot. If this should be the case, keep
on running at a reduced heat and when you finish, be sure to rinse out the
entire apparatus thoroughly before starting the second run. Incidentally,
unless you have had lots of experience, it is not a good idea to run at "full
blast" for the entire run. Most of us use the hight heat only to cut down the
warm-up period of the batch.
Second Run - Run to 204 F*
Pour your first run into the kettle as is. Do NOT add water. Set up the
apparatus again and turn on the heat. CAUTION: NEVER TURN ON THE FLAME UNTIL
THE KETTLE IS BUTTONED UP. This time results come faster, at about 160 F- 180
F it starts, and in about one hour the 204 F mark is reached. If you are
lucky you should have about 3/4 gallon of about 70% ethyl alcohol, and the
remainder water and by-products. Once again, pour out the waste, and if you
wish, rinse out the tubing. We now have a pretty good stock, but yeast taste
and other by-product traces are definitely there, although in very small
proportions. At this point, remember, 70% alcohol is 140 proof and has a
flash point of 70 F. You now have a very flammable product.
Note: Multiply % Alcohol x two to get "proof," e.g. 90 Proof whiskey is 45%
alcohol.
Third Run - Save everything between 170 F to 184 F*
This is the run that counts; the first two runs seved to get us a good working
stock, now we start to refine it. Pour in your second run without adding
water, button up the apparatus, and turn on the heat. Stand by to watch your
thermometer. At about 150 F-160 F the needle or coulumn really moves fast to
the 170 F-172 F mark. This jump is normal. Don't let it worry you. Throw
away whatever comes off before 170 F (or that which comes off before the
trickle steadies into a solid stream), and save the rest up to 184 F. Time
for this third run is about 3/4 hour, and the distillate will amount ot about
1/2 gallon, which will be around 82% to 87 % ethyl alcohol and the remainder
water and very, very ssmall traces of by-products. Some of us stop here and
call it quits. The elapsed time from start to this point is about 4-3/4
hours.
*See Note Page 16
Fourth run - Save Everything Between 170 F to 180 F
Now we are on the home stretch. Pour in your third run without adding water.
Button up and turn on the heat. As before, the needle will jump to the 170
F-172 F mark. Throw away whatever comes off before 170 F-172 F and keep the
rest up to 180 F. This time the run will last only about 1/2 hour and will
amount to about 1/2 gallon, consisting of 90% to 95% ethyl alcohol and the
remainder distilled water. We are betting our first drink on the fact that
the by-products will be negligible. Now you have an excellent base for any
type liquor that you care to concoct.
Notice that we have not once run according to proof. Now bring out your
hydormeter and let's cut the fourth run back to about 90 proof. Be sure that
you use your hydrometer at the correct temperature, usually 60 F. Otherwise,
if the product is warmer than prescribed, there will be an error in proof.
After cutback, you should now have about 7/8 to 1-1/5 gallons of the finest
raw whiskey this side of California. Here's a thought: don't worry if your
ferment didn't start running at the temperatures we've indicated. It is rare
that two batches are exactly alike in alcoholic contend. Therefore, there
will be differences in initial boiling temperatures as explained in the note
on page 16.
*NOTE: These temperatures are approximate. It is very difficult to run
exactly according to the prescribed degree because:
a. Your thermometer might be off.
b. Percentage of alcohol vcs water may vary considerably even though you have
followed correct instructions.
Therefore, as you gain experience, you'll learn to judge both temperatures and
the "strength" of the first trickle during the 3rd and 4th runs. Usually you
throw away that which comes off before the trickle steadies.
REFLUX COLUMN DISTILLAIONT UNITS;
(1) Apparatus: Essentially there will be a pot (5 to 20 gal.), a packed
column (1-1/2 to 3 feet), and a condensing system.
The pot requires little comment except to state that operators of gas heated
units should be careful because the product is nearly pure ethyl alcohol and
thus extrememly combustible. The top and sides of the pot should be
insulated.
The packed column is the most imnportant aspect of this type of still. The
usual packing materials are: stainless steel mesh or turnings; glass beads or
rings, and porcelain saddles. When packed normally, one can expect 6 inches
(1/2 foot) of packed column height to be equivalent to one plate. Thus the
pot and 1-1/2 feet of packed column will be equivalent to the 4-run pot still.
The outside of the column will need insulation, otherwise too much internal
condensation will occur due to heat loss to atmosphere. ther are two schools
of thought on the need of an internal reflux condenser. Certainly if one is
used, then careful control must be exercised, otherwise the column may become
flooded and thus impair efficienccy of separation. There should be a separate
needle valve for controlling internal reflux water. Do not allow the complete
condenser water stream to pass through the internal reflux condenser. One way
to decide on the need of internal reflux is the adequateness of the column
insulation. If the column is not well insulated, then the need for internal
reflux is lessened.
(2) Operations: As in any distillation, the faster the rate of distilling the
lower the efficiency of separation. If oa 3-foot column is used, the process
can be forced, and still yield a good product with one run. If a short column
(1-1/2 feet of packing) is used, a lower rate is desirable in order to get by
with one run.
(3) Cleaning: The cleaning operations of a reflux column depend on one's
techniques of distilling. After every batch one should backwash the column.
And after 4 or 5 batches the column packing should be removed and cleaned
thoroughly -- hot soapy water, vinegar rinse, raw water and sweet water.
"AGING"
"It was supposed for a long time that, by aging straight whiskey in the
charred wood, a chemical change took place which rid the liquor of fusel oils
and this destroyed the unpleasant taste and odor. It now appears by chemical
analysis that this is untrue -- that the effect of aging is only to dissipate
the odor and modify the raw, unpleasant flavor, but to leave the fusel oil
still in the straight whiskey. It is known that wood absorbs some of the
undesirable components while some of the materials in the wood are, in turn,
dissolved by the whiskey. At the same time, some of the secondary products
are changed into acids and esters, so that in matured whiskey many of the
secondary components are actually present in higher content than in green
liquor. The esters increase in matured whiskey, but to a lesser extent,
furfural and higher alcohols, i.e., fusel oil, remain practically unchanged.
There is also the change in proof in whiskey stored in wooden barrels since
water difuses more rapidly through the pores of the wood than does alcohol."
The above paragraph throws a new light on th subject. Apperantly it's not true
that aging in charred wood gets rid of the undesirable by-products, but still
some of us like the taste of the esters because that's what gives the "whiskey
taste" to our Stateside liquor. It follows then, that running according to
temperatures is one of the best ways of getting rid of unwanted by-products.
In the past some people have used the technique of accelerated aging by
double-boiler heating of 90 proof alcohol and wood chips. WE DEFINITELY DO
NOT RECOMMEND THIS METHOD BECAUSE, FIRST, ALCOHOL VAPORS ARE RELEASED ABOVE
THE FLAME OF THE STOVE WHICH IS HAZARDOUS, AND SECOND, THE METHOD REQUIRES A
LOOSE-FITTING CAP ON THE ALCOHOL CONTAINER. It is difficult to specify what
is loose and what is not. If the cap should accidentally be fastened too
tightly, it is possible that pressure can build up inside the container, and
it might explode. This is a double hazard because of the shrapnel-like
articles of the container and the sudden release of the flammable alcohol
vapors.
From wetfood@micapeak.com Mon Mar 22 17:05:41 1999
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From: martin@plaza.ds.adp.com
To: Pacific NW Motorcycle Food Forum
Subject: Blue Flame, the appendix
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X-Comment: Pacific NW Motorcycle Food Forum
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Status: RO
Some of these recipes are, perhaps, the sort of thing people do when
they're desparate. I'm reasonably sure that the blueberry wine, or some
adaptation of it, was my first tipple:
I. General Brewing Information
There are four types of simple beverage; wine, cider, mead, and beer. The
first is made of fruit or vegetable juices, water, and sugar, either mixed
naturally as in the grape, or by adding water to make an infusion. The second
is the juice of the apple, pressed out and left to its natural ferment without
any addition. Cherry, or pear cider, is made in this way. The third is made
by the fermentation of honey diluted with water; thus is produced one of th
efinest known wines but it must be matured for many years to be at its best.
The fourth is a complex brew that has no keeping quality - malt beer.
After careful cleaning and sterilizing of all bottles and jugs has eliminated
the possibility of moulds, the greatest worry is "vinegaring." Turning to
vinegar occurs by the introduction to the fermenting batch (called must) of a
microorganism called mycoderma acetii, which lives a sort of suspended life in
the atmosphere, waiting until it can find a ferment of sugar and fruit into
which it can insert itself. All fermenting vessels must be covered form the
open air; not merely with thin material such as muslin, but with thick layers
of blanket cloth. A water trap or bubbler may be used; this calls for a
closed fermenting vessel except for a hose leading to a glass of water. All
decantation, filtering of sediment, or racking must be done quickly and the
vessel immediately covered once the work is finished.
All fermenting wines throw a heavy deposit which is unpleasant in both smell
and taste, wines are much improve if, when the first violent ferment is
finished, they are racked (siphoned) off into a clean vessel.
Fining (the clarifying of wine) is not always essential. Some wines are
bright and clear by nature, and if the must is carefully made or filtered
through a cloth bag it will often need no further clearing. But some types
will always need it. In extracting the juices from fruits excessive boiling
might contribute to a cloudy wine. They should be boiled only until they are
soft, never until they begin to break up and cloud the water. It is incorrect
to think that long and fierce boiling will give a stronger infusion.
Fining is done in several ways. Isinglass (a gelatin-like material) being
insoluble in the wine is safe and effective. The isinglass is put into a
basin and soaked for about 20 minutes in cold water. Then a little of the
wine is brought to the boil and poured onto the isinglass until it is liquid.
This solution is poured and stirred into one's cask or jug. As it solidiies
it will fall carrying with it any particles suspened in the wine. An ounce of
isinglass will fine as much as 10 gallons. (It is also possible to use the
isinglass dry. Just drop in a big pinch for each gallon in your cask.
Another system is to use eggshells, 2 or 3 to the gallon. Also used is the
method of clearing by beating the white of eggs into it). If a wine
obstinately refuses to clear it may be deficient in tannin. (Fermenting in
wood barrels is excellent because tannin is extracted as needed by the wine
itself. Metal containers are not to be used in any of the wine making steps).
Filtering is another matter. Unless a pressure filter is used it is a long a
tedious process. Moreover, filtered wines lose some quality and can be
detected from the non-filtered sort. When all has been said of fining by
various means, the best fining of all is time. Long storage not only matures
wine, it clears and brightens it. Wine drawn from a cask that has been
standing undistubed a year or more will seldom need any fining.
After fermentation has stopped and fining is completed, wine should be
bottled and corked loosely. (Never cork tightly until you are sure that all
fermentation has stopped. Never use screw caps). Laying bottles on their
sides to keep the corks wet is only necessary if wines are to be stored for
several years.
The simplest of all brews to make is grape wine. Grapes are pressed, the must
put into clean casks and allowed to ferment to make the best of all wines.
Often home made grape wines are better than the commercial product because
more care can be exercised in pressing the juice from the grapes. Bare feet
are better than mechanical presses that crush pips, stalks, and skins. Grape
wine should be allowed to clear itself if possible. Red wine is fermented
upon the skins of the grapes, and stored in the dark in brown bottles. To
make white wine from grapes, either obtain white grapes and proceed as usual
or take black grapes and carefully express the juice so as not to bruise the
color cells in the skin. White wines also may be made from apples and other
fruits.
BEER
3 lb. can Malt Syrup (extra pale)
10 gals. sweet water
1 pkt. gelatin
6 lbs. (12 cups) Sugar
4 teasp. dry yeast
Heat enough water to dissolve Malt, sugar and gelatin. Add rest of water to
crock with above (some hot, some cold) to make lukewarm temperature. Dissolve
yeast in cup oflukewarm water and add, stir in. Let sit 7 days or until
bubbling stops. Bottle up, adding 1/2 teaspoon sugar to each bottle before
capping. Makes 80 - 16 oz.
BLUEBERRY WINE
3/4 Tbs. yeast
6 pkg. frozen blueberries
3 bottles grape juice - Welches
8 lbs. sugar
2 gals. raw H2O
2 gals. sweet H2O
Mix above ingredients and allow to stand a week to 10 days - until it stops
working. Strain thru cheesecloth and bottle.
RICE WINE
6 Cups of unpolished rice
2 Cups white raisins, finely chopped
6 Cups sugar
4 quarts water
1 pkg. dry granulated yeast
1 crushed eggshell (used final week of fermentation)
Combine rice and raisins in kettle or large pan with 2 quarts of water.
Dissolve sugar in remaining water over low flame. While still hot stirr into
rice-raisin mixture. Let cool to lukewarm and sprinkle yeast over surface.
Set in warm place to ferment two weeks. Stir every day from the bottom to
prevent rice from forming into lumps.
After two weeks strain through jelly bag and return liquid to pan for
additional week of fermentation. Sprinkle crushed egg shell over surface of
liquid at this time. This will settle and clear. Siphon into [bottles and
cork] lightly until fermentation is definitely over - then cork tightly and
seal with paraffin. Keep for six months at least. However, a year's aging
really makes this worthy.
BOURBON
Mix and ferment 14 days:
10 gal. of water
4 cans of yellow corn meal
1 lb. wheat (not cracked)
1 lb. sprouted barley
1/2 tsp. yeast
Distil to 150 proof
Age in charred oak barrel (8 - 12 months)
APPLE SHERRY
2 lbs. apricots (dried)
6 lbs. apples (windfalls will do)
1 gallon water
1 lb. raisins
1 cake shredded wheat
3 1/2 lbs. sugar (less for a drier wine)
1. Boil the apricots in the water until very tender, then strain the liquid
off and use the apricots as food.
2. Cut up the apples (leaving skin and brown patches on) and pour the apricot
liquid over. Squeeze and mash every day for 14 days, then strain all pulp
out.
3. Add the shredded wheat, chopped raisins and sugar and leave to ferment 21
days.
4. Then skim, strain, and bottle. Keep 12 months.
GRAPE WINE
6 lbs. grapes (any kind)
1 gallon of cold water
3 1/2 lbs. white sugar (less for a drier wine)
1. Bruise each grape between the finger and thumb, cover with the cold water.
Stir each day and press the grapes for 7 days. Then strain throwing the pulp
away.
2. Strain a second time through a clean tea towel. Add the sugar and stir
until it is dissolved, then add a teacupful of boiling water and set the wine
in a warm place to ferment.
3. When fermented 14 days skim and bottle, corking lightly until all hissing
ceases.
RED MEAD
1 gallon water
4 1/2 lbs. honey
3 quarts red currant juice
1 lb. raisins
1 oz. yeast
1 slice toast
1. Boil the honey and water together.
2. When cool add the red currant juice, chopped raisins and yeast spread on
the toast. Allow to ferment 16 days.
3. Then skim and strain and stand 10 days before bottling.
WHITE CURRANT WINE
1 gallon white currants
1 gallon boiling water
1 lb. large raisins
3-3/4 lb. white sugar
1. Put the currants into a bowl. (I generally rip them off the strap). Add
the chopped raisins, sugar, and boiling water.
2. Stir and mash the fruit every day for 14 days.
3. Then strain and squeeze all the moisture from the pulp which you throw
away.
4. Then strain the liquid twice and bottle.
RASPBERRY SLOB (5 gallon batch)
6 lbs. or 8 cartons frozen raspberries
6 lbs. sugar
4 gallons of water
1 tablespoon of yeast
Dissolve sugar; throw in raspberries; connect up a bubbler, shake every day;
takes 10-14 days; allow to settle 2 days; siphon off between the crud on top
and the crap on bottom.
-30-