Workstand instructions Materials List: Two sheets of 3/4" plywood (although 20/32nd board has worked, but is not recommended for motorcycles over 600lbs weight) 1 lb box of 1 5/8" drywall screws (or 1 1/4 screws if using 20/32nd board) 8 oz. bottle of woodglue or larger 12 2" hinges if you want it to fold down (strongly recommended) Saws - Table saw and/or circular saw, and a jig saw. Drill with #2 Phillips bit and one drill bit sized to accommodate the blade on the jigsaw Carpenters pencil or equivalent to mark cut/orientation lines and pieces ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cutting out the pieces Note: Each piece should be labeled with a pencil for later assembly and easy identification as it is cut out! Also, when references are given to the "top" of a piece, it shall refer to the top of the piece as oriented on the layout diagram. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sheet One: Start by ripping the two G pieces off at 12" from the top of sheet one, This piece will be ripped in half in a few cuts so don't adjust the fence on the tablesaw yet. Next rip the right side of the remainder of sheet one at 12" for the two H1 and H2 pieces. This will also be ripped to correct size in just a bit but there is one more 12" cut left. Now rip from the top of the remainder of sheet one piece A. Now we will rip the first cut piece for G in half to yield both G pieces at 12" X 47.94" (48" minus width of the blade, just aim for the middle) Now set your fence for 17.25" and rip the two H pieces from your second cut piece and toss the excess. Now back to the main sheet. Rip from the right side so that the total width is now 82.75" then cut from the top piece I at 10.25" Rip from the side of the main sheet so that it is now 82.5" and set your fence for 10.5" and cut Piece M. Set your fence to 2" and rip piece K1. The piece that is left should be just about 1/2", this will be piece L1 and were done with sheet one. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sheet Two: Start with the fence set to 17.25" and rip from the top all the way across twice. This will be the pieces used for B1, B2, H3, and H4. Set the fence at 12" and rip from the right side from both pieces just cut pieces B and H. Set the fence at 2" and rip from the remainder of the sheet the two R pieces with one cut, then cut this into two pieces for R1 and R2 at 2" X 48" Set your fence at 12.25" and cut from the right side of the remainder of the sheet piece C1. You will need to trip the bottom of this piece for correct size at 10.5 yielding a finished piece 12.25" X 10.5" Now rip the remainder of sheet two down to 82.75" and set your fence for 4" Rip the two J pieces as rectangles for now, we'll make the final angle cut later. Rip the remainder of sheet two down to 82.5" and set your fence to 2". Rip Piece K2, and like with sheet one the remainder will be L2. And were done with sheet 2... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cutouts: Now we need to complete pieces B1, B2 D, E1, E2, F, N, O, P, and create piece C2. Pieces B1 and B2 will have four sections cutout. Pieces B should be fastened together so the cutouts match. Two sized cutouts of 7.00" X 13.00" and 7.00" X 19.00". The 7.00" X 13.00" cutout will be made 7.25" from the top and 3.00" in from the side of each end. The next two cutouts will be made in from the first by 4.75" or 20.75" in from each end and still 7.25" down from the top. This should yield an ~4.50" section in the middle of the final two cutouts. Once you have your cutout lines marked there are two approaches to cutting out depending on your ability to cut a straight line and/or tools at hand. Either drill a hole in each corner and cutout the entire piece with a jigsaw, or take a circular skill saw and saw the lines close to the corners and finish with a jig or hand saw. Either way, try and make sure that the cuts are as close to straight as possible and many pieces will be cutout from the scrap from these holes. Once you have all found sections cutout separate pieces B (take care on orientation so that when assembling the two sides the holes still line up, natch) take the scrap pieces and set them aside. If you have a tablesaw you might find it easy to 'square up' these pieces first before cutout out the next pieces by running one side through and then flipping it over and using that as your new straight edge. It will probably take several passes but you should be able to square up the pieces and not loose too much material. Take care not to cut the height down below 6.125 as there are two pieces of this height, and one at 6"! Save two pieces of the 7" X 19" for piece C2! Now cutout pieces D, E1, E2, F, J1, J2, N, O, and P as rough sized rectangles, Piece D is 5" X 10.5", pieces E1 and E2 are 4" X 10.5", Piece F is 6" X 10.5", Piece N is 4" X 8.75" (adjust if using 20/32nd board), Piece O is 2" X 8.75" (adjust is using 20/32nd board), and piece P is 3.88" X 8.75" (adjust is using 20/32nd board) Set E1, E2, & O aside as they are finished. Piece C2 will be manufactured as two pieces cutout from the two reserved 7" X 19" and then glued together. You can also create a backing piece to glue/screw on and face inside, but this is optional and just eases assembly if glue is not yet dry when assembling the final unit. To form Piece C2 you need to take the squared up 7" X 19" pieces (now probably closer to 6.5" X 18") and cut these down to two pieces 6.125" X 10.5", then glue the two pieces together along the 6.125" to form one piece 12.25" X 10.5". If you wish to put the backing plate on cut a piece of scrap 3" X 10.5" and glue/screw this piece on the back (inside of the main box), but again, this is optional and only makes assembly easier if pieces are not dried at assembly as it should not make a difference to structural strength as load bearing is straight down. Now locate pieces D, F, J1, J2, N, & P. Piece D should have two sections cut out of the upper right corner and upper left corners along the top at 0.50"X3.00" each to yield a piece with 4.50" left from the 10.50" width. Piece F should have from the top cut out the two 1.00"X1.00" corners cut out, then cutout from the middle along the top leaving a section 2.00"X1.00" next to these corners cutout. Pieces J1 and J2 should be temporarily attached together like B was to have one corner cut each cut out. Mark along the top at 19.25" and then draw a line with a straightedge to the bottom corner on the same side. Cut along this line Piece N should have the top center section cutout 1.00" deep leaving the two outside edges intact at 1.88" width. The notch on the top of piece D should be able to fit inside of this cutout when completed. Pieces P cutout is similar to piece D but the cutout dimensions are 2.00" by 0.75" leaving a notch 4.75" X 0.75" across the top left. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------